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Antique Jewelry
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Published: August 17, 2006
Edwardian and Art Nouveau may sound like time periods associated with art but actually originate with jewelry. Antique jewelry, which dates back to the early 1800s, is categorized into four different eras:
Victorian (1836-1901)
Following the reign of Queen Victoria in Great Britain (1836-1901) jewelry of this time often mimicked the styles she preferred, and included elements such as hearts, flowers, bows, and birds. Popular gemstones of the time included garnets, amethysts, and turquoise. Most Victorian jewelry pieces were meant to symbolize either love or mourning.
Art Nouveau (1890-1919)
Jewelry of this time was representative of the turn of the century and the coming of the modern age. Nature motifs dominated many designs, including elements such as butterflies, dragonflies and flowers. Jewelers also placed an emphasis on design and craftsmanship, with elaborate and intricate designs. Gemstones popular during this era included amber, opals and moonstones.
Edwardian (1901-1915)
A brief flair in fashion and jewelry prompted intricate patterns made from platinum and diamonds. Pearls and hair jewelry, including tiaras and long earrings, were also popular during this time.
Art Deco (1920-1935)
Emphasis during this era shifted from soft to bright colors as the flamboyant styles of the age of jazz and the flapper were designed to attract attention. It is no surprise then, that long earrings, diamond watches, beads, and large cocktail rings were popular during this time. Gemstones of this era included sapphires and rubies.
Before there were such things as the emerald and princess cut, and the art of gemstone cutting became a precise science, stones appeared much simpler. Most of the cuts that were used in the 1800s and onward have since been outdated with more complex, faceted versions. Listed below are some of the most common gemstone cuts used in antique jewelry.
Vintage or Antique?
The term vintage usually refers to jewelry that is at least 20 years old, while antique refers to jewelry that is at least 50 years old. Not only is antique jewelry older than vintage pieces, but it is often more valuable as well.
What's valuable and what's fake
The value of antique jewelry is largely determined by its condition. Surprisingly the first place to start is not with how a piece looks like from the front but from behind.
Using a 10X loupe, which is like a magnifying glass for jewelry, you should pay attention to differences in metal colors, as well as the location and appearance of any seams. Differences in metal colors may indicate that an alteration was made to the piece, most commonly in the form of a repair. Different colored metals usually point to a bad repair. Not only can it be a testament to its original quality and value, as jewelers pay closer attention to finer pieces, but differences in color may also point to the inclusion of less expensive metals. Lead, which was a cheap form of jewelry repair, not only looks bad in comparison to gold, silver, or platinum, but is also soft and can eat through other metals.
Repairs are not always negative indications of a jewelry piece; most jewelry dating prior to 1850 has been repaired. Seams may indicate that stones were later added to jewelry pieces or that a jeweler made other alterations. Pieces that are replicas or cameos are not as valuable as the originals. Therefore, the absence or presence of seams may point to the value of antique jewelry.
Another clue as to the value of antique jewelry is the inclusion of a hallmark. A hallmark, which is not to be confused with a maker's mark, offers a guarantee of the metal purity or quality. While this is found on most precious metal objects, it may be exempted from jewelry. Since every country has their own system of hallmarking, jewelry with a hallmark can give clues as to its country of origin as well as other details such as its date of manufacture and metal content.
Victorian (1836-1901)
Following the reign of Queen Victoria in Great Britain (1836-1901) jewelry of this time often mimicked the styles she preferred, and included elements such as hearts, flowers, bows, and birds. Popular gemstones of the time included garnets, amethysts, and turquoise. Most Victorian jewelry pieces were meant to symbolize either love or mourning.
Art Nouveau (1890-1919)
Jewelry of this time was representative of the turn of the century and the coming of the modern age. Nature motifs dominated many designs, including elements such as butterflies, dragonflies and flowers. Jewelers also placed an emphasis on design and craftsmanship, with elaborate and intricate designs. Gemstones popular during this era included amber, opals and moonstones.
Edwardian (1901-1915)
A brief flair in fashion and jewelry prompted intricate patterns made from platinum and diamonds. Pearls and hair jewelry, including tiaras and long earrings, were also popular during this time.
Art Deco (1920-1935)
Emphasis during this era shifted from soft to bright colors as the flamboyant styles of the age of jazz and the flapper were designed to attract attention. It is no surprise then, that long earrings, diamond watches, beads, and large cocktail rings were popular during this time. Gemstones of this era included sapphires and rubies.
Before there were such things as the emerald and princess cut, and the art of gemstone cutting became a precise science, stones appeared much simpler. Most of the cuts that were used in the 1800s and onward have since been outdated with more complex, faceted versions. Listed below are some of the most common gemstone cuts used in antique jewelry.
- Point cut- A slight modification of a stone's rough octahedral shape, this 8-sided cut is perhaps the simplest of all antique cuts.
- Table cut- This is just a fancier version of the point cut. The stone retains the same octahedron shape, but the jeweler grinds down one of the points to make it flat, thus adding additional facets to the stone.
- Rose cut- Popular from the 16th Century to the early 1900s, the facets on this cut make the stone resemble the petals on a rosebud. This cut has a flat bottom and a domed crown, and could be as simple or complex as the jeweler wanted. It was not unusual for rose cuts to have as little as 3 facets or as many as 24.
- Full cut- This is the only antique cut that resembles one we are still familiar with today. Bearing a magnificent 58 facets, this cut once was the most elaborate of its time. It eventually evolved into the modern day brilliant cut, which remains the optimum cut for showcasing the stone's brilliance. Nearly all the light that enters a stone with this cut is refracted back out, creating the most sparkle. Introduced in the 17th Century, the full cut was used in many different proportions, some with smaller tables and others with steeper crowns.
Vintage or Antique?
The term vintage usually refers to jewelry that is at least 20 years old, while antique refers to jewelry that is at least 50 years old. Not only is antique jewelry older than vintage pieces, but it is often more valuable as well.
What's valuable and what's fake
The value of antique jewelry is largely determined by its condition. Surprisingly the first place to start is not with how a piece looks like from the front but from behind.
Using a 10X loupe, which is like a magnifying glass for jewelry, you should pay attention to differences in metal colors, as well as the location and appearance of any seams. Differences in metal colors may indicate that an alteration was made to the piece, most commonly in the form of a repair. Different colored metals usually point to a bad repair. Not only can it be a testament to its original quality and value, as jewelers pay closer attention to finer pieces, but differences in color may also point to the inclusion of less expensive metals. Lead, which was a cheap form of jewelry repair, not only looks bad in comparison to gold, silver, or platinum, but is also soft and can eat through other metals.
Repairs are not always negative indications of a jewelry piece; most jewelry dating prior to 1850 has been repaired. Seams may indicate that stones were later added to jewelry pieces or that a jeweler made other alterations. Pieces that are replicas or cameos are not as valuable as the originals. Therefore, the absence or presence of seams may point to the value of antique jewelry.
Another clue as to the value of antique jewelry is the inclusion of a hallmark. A hallmark, which is not to be confused with a maker's mark, offers a guarantee of the metal purity or quality. While this is found on most precious metal objects, it may be exempted from jewelry. Since every country has their own system of hallmarking, jewelry with a hallmark can give clues as to its country of origin as well as other details such as its date of manufacture and metal content.
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